In “Nonnas,” a less significant yet thematically crucial subplot involves Vince Vaughn’s character attempting to replicate the perfect Sunday gravy cooked by his deceased mother. He finds himself searching for precisely the correct level of sweetness. Could this elusive component hold the key to completing the recipe?
Some kind of sugar? Honey? What?
Luckily, “Nonnas” — a family-oriented movie from Netflix released just in time for Mother’s Day — doesn’t have these problems. Its success stems easily identifiable elements: the true-to-life storyline, performances by Vaughn alongside co-stars like Lorraine Bracco, Brenda Vaccaro, and Joe Manganiello, along with the directing efforts of married filmmakers Stephen Chbosky and Liz Maccie. These aspects combine to create an endearing triumph.
Vaughn plays Joe Scaravella, a Brooklyn resident feeling increasingly lost following his mother’s death. His extensive Italian family attempts to console him through cooking. Yet, it is his lifelong buddy Bruno (played by Manganiello) and Bruno’s spouse, Stella (portrayed by Drea de Matteo), who strive to provide him with deeper support: encouragement to transform his life. This transformation is facilitated by the $200,000 inheritance from his late mother.
Nevertheless, they are surprised when Joe, who has spent many years working at a Metropolitan Transit Authority garage, reveals that he has utilized his entire inheritance to purchase land in Staten Island. His plan is to establish an Italian restaurant called Enoteca Maria, named after his mother.
“I was thinking more along the lines of purchasing some new furniture or getting a girlfriend,” Stella explains.
“Exactly,” says Bruno, “or perhaps focus on paying off your mortgage instead of starting a business you have no experience with.”
Joe has two main concepts for making this successful: Firstly, he plans to rely on his builder friend, Bruno, to handle all the necessary improvements costing several thousand dollars; secondly, he intends to employ real “nonnas” (Italian for grandmothers) as cooks, aiming to recreate the warm, family-style dinner atmosphere typically found at home but presented in a restaurant setting.
Bruno sees little choice but to do his part, even if he’s skeptical Joe ever will pay him what he’s owed — and Stella’s excited to chip in with some interior design — but enlisting the older Italian ladies isn’t so easy for Joe. Even Bracco’s Roberta, the lifelong best friend of Joe’s mother, takes a LOT of convincing. (When Joe tells her it may make her happy, she responds, “I’m 75 years old — I am DONE being happy!”)
In time, Joe encounters three more chefs: Antonella (Vaccaro), whom he runs into at an open-air market in Staten Island where she is grocery shopping alongside her neighbor Olivia (Linda Cardellini), his high school prom date from years back—an event he looks back upon regretfully; Gia (Susan Sarandon), a skilled hairstylist and salon proprietor with a knack for baking; and Teresa (Talia Shire, of “The Godfather” fame), a woman who once took vows but later abandoned religious life under circumstances that will be explained further along.
You might think some of the conflicts “Nonnas” face would stem from their cooking abilities—maybe even include a health scare—but instead, they excel in the kitchen. However, things aren’t always smooth sailing; they occasionally clash in this confined space where competition can flare up due to Antonella’s Bolognese background clashing with Roberta’s Sicilian one. The others also have opinions about how Gia tends to flaunt certain aspects of herself.
Primarily, the issues revolve around finances, as Joe spends his money and connections rapidly, which inevitably leads to a confrontation with Bruno. (During the expected reconciliation conversation between friends, actor Manganiello, known for his roles in the “True Blood” and “Magic Mike” franchises, delivers an unexpectedly impressive performance.)
We know this will all work out — or at least we’re pretty sure; Maccie’s screenplay keeps what doubt we do have well-seasoned well into the affair.
She also succeeds in peppering the film with references to Italian culinary delights such as zeppole, scungilli and capuzzelle — although that last one, involving the baking of the head of a lamb, can cause quite the pungent smell.
Food is captured beautifully throughout “Nonnas” by Chbosky, who is said to have told his wife that if another director dropped off the project — which, reportedly, is what happened — that he’d love to step in, calling the movie “a love letter” to her in the film’s production notes.
Chbosky, who previously directed “The Perks of Being a Wallflower” (2012), “Wonder” (2017), and “Dear Evan Hansen” (2021), demonstrates competence behind the camera. He prioritizes character growth effectively, which is wise, though he occasionally allows certain scenes to drag. Additionally, the burgeoning relationship between Joe and Olivia feels somewhat neglected, lacking sufficient depth despite its gradual progression.
Vaughn (“The Break-Up,” “Bad Monk”) fits perfectly into the character of Joe, who is both genuine and likable; certainly flawed, yet precisely the sort of man whom not even the nonnas or Bruno would wish to disappoint.
We would have appreciated more than just a brief reunion of “The Sopranos” cast members Bracco and de Matteo, but they do appear together for some screen time.
It’s difficult to find fault with this dish, as it offers a pleasing savory flavor along with a touch of sweetness that even Joe’s mother would appreciate.
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‘NONNAS’
3 out of 4 stars
MPA rating: PG (due to suggestive content, mild language, and thematic components)
Running time: 1:51
How to watch: Netflix
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